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BREAKFAST DISHES
Milanese Timbale (36) Country-Style Beef Stew (113) Green Beans with Poulette Sauce (114) Italian-Style Veal Rings (8) Canneloni Au Gratin (96) Semolina Pudding (115)
DINNER DISHES
Apple Soup (81) Deviled Eggs (116) Braised Beef Tongue (117) French Peas (118) Pork Chops with Turnips (88)
Frangipane tart (92)
113. Peasant beef stew. 700 grams of beef (shank or brisket), 100 grams of bacon, one onion, four tablespoons of flour, six potatoes. Melt the bacon cut into squares in a saucepan; add the meat, also cut into pieces, and brown it on all sides. Season with salt and pepper. When the meat is well browned, sprinkle it with a spoonful of flour; moisten with a liter of hot water; add a bouquet garni and cook for two and a half hours. Monitor the cooking time to add more water if the sauce becomes too thick. Half an hour before the end of cooking, add six potatoes cut into squares or blanched dried beans. Cook for another half hour and serve after removing the bouquet garni.
114. Green Beans in Chicken Sauce. 500 grams of green beans, 15 grams of flour, 40 grams of butter, 1/4 liter of the cooking water, one egg yolk, a tablespoon of chopped parsley, salt, and pepper. Peel the beans and remove the strings. Wash and drain them on a cloth. Add them to boiling salted water and bring back to a boil. Boil briskly for twenty minutes; make a roux with the butter and flour, cook for two or three minutes, and add the beans. Bring to a boil and remove from heat to simmer. Drain the beans and, just before serving, thicken the sauce with the egg yolk. Season with pepper and add the beans to the sauce. Reheat for ten minutes and serve immediately.
115. Semolina Pudding. 125 grams of semolina, 3/4 liter of milk, three spoonfuls of sugar, 150 grams of Malaga raisins, three eggs, two spoonfuls of rum. Boil the milk, pour in 125 grams of semolina all at once; stir with a wooden spoon until the dough comes away from the pan. When the dough has cooled slightly, add three spoonfuls of sugar, three whole eggs, two spoonfuls of rum or orange blossom water, and 150 grams of cleaned Malaga raisins, soaking them in hot water for a quarter of an hour and removing the stems. Mix everything well and place in a mold coated with caramel as for the flan. Bake in a bain-marie for one hour. Ensure it is cooked as for the bread pudding. Let it cool before removing from the mold. You can serve this pudding with custard. Tapioca pudding is prepared in the same way.
116. Stuffed Eggs. Four eggs, 40 grams of butter, 2 deciliters of béchamel sauce, 40 grams of grated cheese, 20 grams of fresh butter, one onion, parsley, chives, salt, and pepper. Halve the hard-boiled eggs; remove the yolk without breaking the white. Pack in butter, one onion, a little very finely chopped parsley and chives, and add them to the previously crushed yolks. Mix everything with a little béchamel sauce; season with salt and pepper, and fill the egg whites with this mixture. Arrange them in a stovetop dish, cover them with the sauce, and finish as for eggs au gratin.
117. Braised Beef Tongue. One beef tongue, 100 grams of bacon, one onion, two carrots, leeks, salt. Remove the cone and wash the tongue in warm water, cook it in boiling salted water until the skin peels off easily; split it in two lengthwise and place it in a saucepan lined with slices of bacon and vegetables; cover three-quarters with a little white wine and the rest with hot water. Cook until the liquid is reduced by half and the meat is well browned; pass the juice through a sieve, return it to the empty saucepan, thicken it with a little starch or fresh butter, salt, if necessary; add a little tomato if desired and serve the sauce with the tongue arranged in a crown on a round dish. Any vegetable can be served as an accompaniment to the braised tongue. Beef tongue can also be cooked à la bonne femme and in a stew.
118. French-Style Peas. 2 kilos of pea pods, two small onions, a sprig of thyme, a spoonful of flour, a large knob of butter, an egg yolk, and a little parsley. Place the raw peas in a saucepan with a knob of butter, a glass of water, a few small onions, a sprig of thyme, a little parsley, and a pinch of salt; let them cook gently in an open saucepan. When the peas are almost cooked, sprinkle them with flour, add a little water, stir gently, and, just before serving, add an egg yolk. Along with the peas, you can cook one or two small lettuces, cut into pieces.
THE HEARTH CRICKET.
A LITTLE BIT OF EVERYTHING
Breaded Chops. After trimming, flattening, and salting the chops, coat them in beaten egg white with a little olive oil and then in the breadcrumbs; roast. Calf's Liver Steaks. Cut the liver into one-centimeter-thick slices, season with salt and pepper, coat them in flour and then in hot butter, like beef steaks. Serve with potatoes cooked in salted water or butter.
Sautéed Kidneys. Veal kidneys, a spoonful of flour, a glass of wine, a spoonful of fat, salt, and pepper. Slice the kidneys thinly, season them with salt and pepper, coat them in flour, and sauté them in butter like liver steaks. When they begin to brown, moisten them with a glass of white or red wine, stir the sauce, and let it cook for a few more moments.
Leg of mutton stew. After trimming and beating the leg, marinate it for five to six days if the meat is fresh, and only two or three days if the animal has been killed for a few days. For the marinade and cooking method, proceed as for the "Daube"
Rolled Shoulder of Mutton. Bone the shoulder of mutton or have the butcher bone it; salt the inside and tie it up; roast it like the leg of lamb.
Peasant-Style Mutton Stew. One kilogram of mutton breast, one spoonful of flour, one spoonful of fat, six potatoes, salt, and pepper. Cut the meat into pieces as for the peasant-style beef stew and proceed in the same way, replacing the bacon with fat.
Apple Black Puddings. Prepare a good apple marmalade. Melt some fat in a pan, fry the black puddings for fifteen minutes, after making a few diagonal incisions; serve them with the marmalade. You can also Fry the apples in the fat used to cook the black pudding.
116. Stuffed Eggs. Four eggs, 40 grams of butter, 2 deciliters of béchamel sauce, 40 grams of grated cheese, 20 grams of fresh butter, one onion, parsley, chives, salt, and pepper. Halve the hard-boiled eggs; remove the yolk without breaking the white. Pack in butter, one onion, a little very finely chopped parsley and chives, and add them to the previously crushed yolks. Mix everything with a little béchamel sauce; season with salt and pepper, and fill the egg whites with this mixture. Arrange them in a stovetop dish, cover them with the sauce, and finish as for eggs au gratin.
117. Braised Beef Tongue. One beef tongue, 100 grams of bacon, one onion, two carrots, leeks, salt. Remove the cone and wash the tongue in warm water, cook it in boiling salted water until the skin peels off easily; split it in two lengthwise and place it in a saucepan lined with slices of bacon and vegetables; cover three-quarters with a little white wine and the rest with hot water. Cook until the liquid is reduced by half and the meat is well browned; pass the juice through a sieve, return it to the empty saucepan, thicken it with a little starch or fresh butter, salt, if necessary; add a little tomato if desired and serve the sauce with the tongue arranged in a crown on a round dish. Any vegetable can be served as an accompaniment to the braised tongue. Beef tongue can also be cooked à la bonne femme and in a stew.
118. French-Style Peas. 2 kilos of pea pods, two small onions, a sprig of thyme, a spoonful of flour, a large knob of butter, an egg yolk, and a little parsley. Place the raw peas in a saucepan with a knob of butter, a glass of water, a few small onions, a sprig of thyme, a little parsley, and a pinch of salt; let them cook gently in an open saucepan. When the peas are almost cooked, sprinkle them with flour, add a little water, stir gently, and, just before serving, add an egg yolk. Along with the peas, you can cook one or two small lettuces, cut into pieces.
THE HEARTH CRICKET.
OUR LITTLE IGNORANCES
Alambic. This word came into French in the 12th century from the Latin of the alchemists (alambiquus), who had borrowed it from the Arabic al-anbiq, from the Greek ambis, a distillation vessel, preceded by the Arabic article al.
Alarm. This term was introduced in the 16th century from the Italian all'arme, meaning "to arms!", and was the cry of sentries surprised by the enemy. It took on the meaning not only of a cry and a call to arms, but of concern, of fear.
Alkali. From the Arabic al-qali, soda ash, or the plant itself. In chemistry, this name is given to the oxides of alkali metals. In everyday language, volatile alkali, or simply alkali, is ammonia.
Alcarraza. It is a porous earthenware vessel, shaped like a carafe, in which water and beverages are cooled by evaporation. The word, borrowed from Spanish, comes from the Arabic al-kourráz, "jug."
Hallelujah. This Hebrew expression, meaning joy, preserved in Latin translations of the psalms, is formed from haleloú, "praise," and iah, the shortened form of Iehovah, "Jehovah."
Amber. Introduced into France at the time of the Crusades, this word comes from the Arabic anbar, "ambergris," a name that later became succin or yellow amber. Ambergris is formed from the intestinal concretions of sperm whales and has an odor similar to that of musk. Yellow amber is a fossil resin, hard, brittle, almost transparent, ranging in color from pale yellow to blood red. Its Greek name, elektron, gave rise to the word "electricity," because, when rubbed, it has the property of attracting light bodies.
Amen. It is a Hebrew word meaning "true, truth," with which the Jews ended their prayers. It took on the meaning "surely, so be it."
Babouche. This word refers to an oriental slipper without a quarter or heel. From the Persian papouch, "covering," which came to us via Arabic, which changed the p to b.
Sheepskin. From the Arabic bithâna, "lining," sheepskin was once used to line the interior of leather objects. Basane, a specially tanned sheepskin, is known to be used in leatherwork, saddlery, and bookbinding.
Belial. A Hebrew expression (beli-ya'al) applied to the demon and meaning "useless, pernicious thing." It is frequently used in the Bible, where the enemies of the Hebrews are referred to as "sons of Belial."
Bougie. This word comes from the Algerian town of Bougie (in Arabic, bidjaya), which supplied a large quantity of wax. Candles are wax, stearin, or paraffin candles with a braided wick.
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