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LUNCH DISHES
Scallops (1) Hard-boiled Egg Vol-au-vent with Cream Steak with Mushrooms (149) Spinach Soufflé (150) Stuffed Pigeons with Jus (105) Coffee Parfait (151)
DINNER DISHES
Bourride (152) Eggs with Tripe, Modern Style (110) Braised Mutton Chops (153) Spanish-Style Broad Beans (154) Canneloni Au Gratin (96) Chiffon Cake (36)
149. Steak with Mushrooms. One and a quarter pounds of beef, butter, lemon juice, a few mushrooms, a spoonful of flour, a few spoonfuls of Madeira wine, salt, pepper, truffles, olives. Cook a few mushrooms in butter and lemon juice. Slice the steaks a little thinner than usual and season. Melt a knob of butter in a sauté pan, place the steaks in it, and cook over high heat; turn them over. It will take about eight to ten minutes to cook. Drain, then add a spoonful of flour to the butter, cook for five minutes, add a little of the mushroom cooking water; reduce; also add a few spoonfuls of Madeira wine and a pinch of pepper if you like. When the sauce is ready, return the steaks to the sauce along with the mushrooms. Let it sit for a few minutes and serve. You can also add truffles or olives.
150. Spinach Soufflé. One kilo of spinach, 60 grams of butter, salt, pepper, three egg whites, two yolks, salt, and pepper. Clean the spinach leaf by leaf, remove the large stems, and place the leaves in a basin of cold, salted water. Wash thoroughly and rinse with several tablespoons. Drain. Add the spinach to a basin of boiling water and let it boil vigorously for ten minutes; drain and chop it. Squeeze it if necessary; place it in a sauté pan near the stove and let it release its moisture. Add the butter, melt while stirring, and season with salt and pepper. Off the heat, add the egg yolks and mix well. Thicken the purée over low heat. Let cool. Beat the egg whites until stiff and carefully fold them into the purée. Pour into a buttered dish or soufflé dish and bake for ten minutes. Serve immediately.
151. Coffee Parfait. Half a liter of milk, half a liter of very strong coffee, six egg yolks, 250 grams of caster sugar, a glass of curaçao, and a glass of rum. Boil half a liter of milk, remove from the heat, add half a liter of very strong coffee, then place six egg yolks and 250 grams of caster sugar in a saucepan; mix everything with the milk. Return the saucepan to the heat, whisk the mixture constantly with the tinned wire whisk; when the cream boils, remove from the heat, let cool, then strain through cheesecloth. Fill a plain mold and surround it with salted ice. Halfway through, add a glass of curaçao and a glass of rum. Finish whisking and serve just as desired, on a doubled napkin. Wipe the edges of the mold and be careful with salt when removing from the mold. If the ice cream is too hard and does not come out easily, plunge the mold quickly into slightly warm water and carefully turn it upside down onto a napkin-lined platter or fruit bowl to be served at the table.
152. Bourride. Three pounds of fresh mixed fish (whiting, sole, carp, weever), fifteen to twenty mussels, three onions, one tomato, one bay leaf, one lemon slice, orange zest, two cloves, saffron, salt, pepper, half a liter of white wine, a quarter of a liter of olive oil, garlic, four egg yolks, and slices of bread. Gather three pounds of fresh mixed fish (whiting, sole, carp, weever) for four people. Clean them, slice them, and place them in a saucepan with about fifteen mussels, three quartered onions, a sieve-filtered tomato, a bay leaf, a lemon slice, orange zest, two cloves, saffron (the latter ingredients must be wrapped in a knot for easier removal), salt, and pepper. Add half a liter of white wine, a quarter of a liter of fine olive oil, and water to cover everything. Turn on a high heat, strain your saucepan, and let it boil for forty minutes; then remove the fish and arrange it separately on a platter. Next, make a "garlic butter," one or two spoonfuls per person; place it in a skillet over high heat, and after adding one egg yolk per guest, stir constantly until the mixture forms a cream. When it is ready, pour it over slices of bread prepared in advance, two or three per person, soaked in the broth, which you then spread over the bread in the soup tureen, to serve it like ordinary soup.
153. Braised Mutton Chops. Four chops, thin lardons, belly fat, ham, carrots, onions, meat juice, white wine. Take mutton chops, leaving two ribs on each, and cut off the backbone. Stud the pieces with thin, seasoned lardons; place the chops in a dark saucepan with belly fat, ham, carrots, and sliced onions. Moisten with half the meat juice and half the white wine, enough to cover the chops. Cover the saucepan and cook over very low heat. When they are almost cool, remove them and keep them off the heat. When they are almost cool, drain them, place them in a press for two hours; then trim them, and heat them in the previously reduced, degreased, and sifted cooking liquid. Arrange the chops in a wreath shape on a warm platter and pour the meat juice over them. Place a papillote in each sleeve and serve.
154. Spanish-Style Fava Beans. 500 grams of fava beans, half a liter of broth, half a glass of Madeira wine, 30 grams of butter, 30 grams of flour, 60 grams of mushrooms, one onion, one tablespoon of chopped parsley, one bunch of parsley, one sprig of thyme, one bay leaf, salt, pepper, and half a lemon. Add the fava beans to boiling salted water. Bring to a boil and cook for twenty minutes. Clean the mushrooms, removing the earthy part, but without peeling them. Wash and pat dry; chop the onion and brown it for two or three minutes in the butter. Add the sliced mushrooms and cook for another two to three minutes. Sprinkle with flour, mix well, let it cook for two minutes without browning, and then pour in the broth. Bring to a boil, season with salt and pepper, add the bouquet garni, and remove from the heat to simmer for fifteen to twenty minutes. Drain the beans and add them to the strained sauce. Simmer over low heat for fifteen to twenty minutes. Ten minutes before serving, add the Madeira wine and lemon juice. Keep warm, simmering without boiling; pour into a vegetable dish, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve.
THE HEARTH CRICKET.
A LITTLE BIT OF EVERYTHIRST
LET'S QUENCH OUR THIRST Lemonades. Lemonade is refreshing; it quenches thirst, but you shouldn't overdo it because of its acidic properties; it's not suitable for irritable stomachs. Since lemons are not always available at certain times, they are replaced by tartaric acid, 1 gram of which is enough to properly acidify 1 liter of water; all that is required is to add sugar in a suitable quantity, and you get a lemonade, each glass of which is extremely cheap. Citric acid is even better; it costs about a third more than tartaric acid, but it produces a better lemonade. Whatever acid is used, it is always a good idea to impart the scent of lemon to the lemonade by pouring, for 1 liter of this liqueur, a drop of fatty lemon essence onto one of the pieces of sugar used to sweeten the lemonade. This essence is sold by all perfumers; it should not be confused with distilled lemon essence, which is used for removing stains, and which would not produce the same effect in the least.
Hot lemonade. Pour boiling water over lemon slices or lemon juice in a teapot.
Wine lemonade. Obtain 500 grams of sugar cubes; rub these cubes on the rinds of two lemons; place them at the bottom of a vase; pour over them a little hot water, enough to melt them; add 2 liters of good red or white wine; strain through a strainer to clear the wine; let cool and set aside for future use.
Ordinary lemonade. Obtain 1 liter of water; squeeze the juice of a strong lemon into this water. Rub the rind of this lemon with a sugar cube, which will absorb the essential oil from the rind. Add this sugar cube to the water; add more sugar, so that there are 90 grams in total; strain the liquid through a cloth.
Powdered lemonade. It's a preventative against scurvy; sailors, travelers, and those who live in the countryside in summer would do well to stock up on it. Here's how to make this lemonade: Take 33 grams of finely powdered tartaric acid and mix it with 1 kilo of sifted powdered sugar, along with 8 grams of gum arabic, also in a very fine powder, and flavored with lemon essence. This powder can be stored indefinitely in cans. To use it, dilute it in a little water.
Citric lemonade. Powdered citric acid, 4 grams; powdered sugar, 125 grams; pure water, 1 liter; flavor with lemon spirit, 4 grams. This powder can be kept and used occasionally. A lemonade can also be made with sorrel salt in the same proportions, or by replacing this salt with 1.60 grams of oxalic acid.
Bordeaux wine lemonade. Infuse for an hour and a half: a lemon zest, the juice of four oranges and one orange, a bottle of good Bordeaux, half a liter of water, and 250 grams of sugar; stir to dissolve the sugar, strain, and serve.
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