Provencal cuisine
The qualities of a good Menu

As everyone knows, the noun Menu has two very distinct meanings: it is used to designate all the dishes and drinks that make up a meal: it is, in short, the program of this meal . It also applies to the menu, whatever the material and form, on which this program is transcribed, and a copy of which is placed, with the cover, in front of each guest.
The custom which established this last meaning of the word Menu is of relatively recent date and only became widespread following the substitution of the so-called "Russian" service for the old French service, in the second half of the last century.

Previously, when a guest wanted to inquire about the dishes placed on the table, he spoke to the people serving. Sometimes, however, labels placed on the covers covering the dishes designated their contents; but this way of proceeding was rather rare, although Lent mentioned it with approval.

The reduction in the number of dishes making up a dinner, a consequence of the adoption of Russian-style service, made it possible to include these dishes, as well as the wines, on cards of a fairly restricted format so that they were not a inconvenience for guests. They could not fail to appreciate an innovation thanks to which they were informed, when sitting down at the table, about the composition of the Dinner and the order of the succession of dishes. Also, the use of individual Menus spread quickly, and it is difficult to imagine, today, that they did not always exist.

In addition to their real usefulness, these Menus constitute very pleasant memories as long as an enlightened taste has governed the choice of the Menu and its printing. Some of these cards, decorated with miniatures, watercolors, pastels. gouaches. are true little masterpieces whose presence near the place setting constitutes an extremely appreciated additional pleasure for the guest.

This artistic perfection of the Menu offers only one drawback, if we can speak in this way it requires equal perfection in the composition and execution of the Menu which is registered there: the slightest fault of taste, the most minimal error , the most insignificant negligence is all the more shocking as the map is richer, more artistic.

We will therefore quickly examine the conditions that a good Menu must meet, this word being taken here in its first and oldest meaning. The composition of a Menu is subject to formal rules. Some of these rules have long been accepted and generally observed: such are, for example, those which prescribe two soups; those which regulate the alternation of clear soup and a bound soup, when a Menu includes dark meats and white meats: poultry and game; brown sauces and blond or white sauces; those again which condemn the repetition of garnishes, except however with regard to mushrooms and truffles, etc.

There are other rules, of less apparent necessity, which relate more to the tact of the worker than to professional requirements, to which it is our duty to draw attention.

The first condition that a well-established Menu must fulfill is to achieve as perfect an agreement as possible between its composition and the particular circumstances of the meal for which it is prepared. To be impeccable, it is not enough for a Menu to be correct from a gastronomic point of view: it must also harmonize with the state of mind of the hosts and guests, reflect it and be inspired by it. Everyone admits that there must even exist a difference, between the Menu of a gala dinner and that of a business dinner; between that of an artists' party and that of a first communion. No one, no matter how ignorant, would confuse such different genres. We remember certain official dinner menus, where ridiculous and baroque names were lavished on them as if at pleasure; where there were dishes bearing the names of notorious courtesans, while in the first row of guests was a sovereign!

We can, without being ridiculously rigorous, deplore such errors against good taste. The same names, used in other circumstances, would not have shocked us in the least. There are even certain cases where they are clearly indicated: those, for example, of artistic manifestations, are only concerned with evoking joy and beauty. It is only natural then to adorn the Menu with the name of beings in whom these gifts have, in some way, materialized.
The Menu must therefore be established in complete accordance with the gender, class and habits of the people to whom the Dinner is to be served. If, for example, there are going to be many ladies there, heavy, spicy dishes or dishes of unusual and bizarre composition should be avoided; On the contrary, it is advisable to give a lot of space to light starters, fresh desserts, delicate ice creams and choice desserts.

If, on the contrary, it is a Dinner between men, the Menu will have to be more substantial; spicy dishes. We can include game with a more pronounced flavor, while the dessert will decrease in importance and can be reduced to its simplest expression. (To be continued.)

A. Escoffier.